Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though note that their younger generation do not want to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will encourage more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
